<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0" xmlns:itunes="http://www.itunes.com/dtds/podcast-1.0.dtd" xmlns:googleplay="http://www.google.com/schemas/play-podcasts/1.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></title><description><![CDATA[Inspiración basada en conocimiento]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com</link><image><url>https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!m6IM!,w_256,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Facb5c4e1-76c8-4a8c-95fe-a059fe36aa28_600x600.jpeg</url><title>archivo naranja</title><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com</link></image><generator>Substack</generator><lastBuildDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2026 03:58:13 GMT</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://www.archivonaranja.com/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><copyright><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></copyright><language><![CDATA[en]]></language><webMaster><![CDATA[archivonaranja@substack.com]]></webMaster><itunes:owner><itunes:email><![CDATA[archivonaranja@substack.com]]></itunes:email><itunes:name><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></itunes:name></itunes:owner><itunes:author><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></itunes:author><googleplay:owner><![CDATA[archivonaranja@substack.com]]></googleplay:owner><googleplay:email><![CDATA[archivonaranja@substack.com]]></googleplay:email><googleplay:author><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></googleplay:author><itunes:block><![CDATA[Yes]]></itunes:block><item><title><![CDATA[¿Por qué McQueen vestía tan simple?]]></title><description><![CDATA[D&#243;nde un dise&#241;ador pone su energ&#237;a cambia por completo c&#243;mo se entiende su trabajo]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/por-que-mcqueen-vestia-tan-simple</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/por-que-mcqueen-vestia-tan-simple</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 03 May 2026 19:30:16 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Siempre me ha llamado la atenci&#243;n ver a Alexander McQueen saliendo a saludar despu&#233;s de uno de sus desfiles.</p><p>Acabas de ver una colecci&#243;n llena de cortes agresivos, vestidos que parecen armaduras, cuerpos tensos, telas rasgadas, referencias hist&#243;ricas pesadas y una belleza que siempre parec&#237;a estar cerca del peligro. La pasarela puede sentirse como teatro, como una pel&#237;cula inc&#243;moda, como una escena construida para meterte en la cabeza de alguien durante unos minutos.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic" width="1456" height="1941" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mAYo!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F340eff7a-502d-4a94-90cc-4a0777e410d8_1752x2336.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Luego aparece &#233;l.</p><p>Jeans, playera, tenis y alguna prenda simple. A veces una polo, a veces una chamarra, casi siempre una forma de vestir mucho m&#225;s com&#250;n que todo lo que acaba de poner frente al p&#250;blico. Su gesto tambi&#233;n dec&#237;a algo: sal&#237;a r&#225;pido, saludaba, recib&#237;a los aplausos y se iba. Como si el centro de la imagen estuviera en otro lado.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic" width="1456" height="1940" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1940,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:393554,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/196341427?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!u3NT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebd533c-c9f1-4822-bb3c-99346fe17325_1638x2182.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ese detalle me parece una de las mejores formas de entrar a su mundo. Porque cuando uno piensa en dise&#241;adores de moda, muchas veces piensa tambi&#233;n en personajes. Karl Lagerfeld convirti&#243; sus trajes oscuros, sus lentes y su coleta blanca en parte de su figura p&#250;blica. Giorgio Armani proyect&#243; una elegancia relajada que tambi&#233;n ayudaba a leer su marca. Rei Kawakubo y Yohji Yamamoto hicieron del negro una postura visual muy reconocible. En muchos casos, la ropa del dise&#241;ador ayuda a reforzar la historia de la casa.</p><p>McQueen hizo algo distinto. Su ropa diaria parec&#237;a bajar el volumen de su presencia. Mientras sus colecciones cargaban con drama, historia, agresi&#243;n, deseo y oficio, &#233;l aparec&#237;a vestido como alguien que ven&#237;a del taller de costura. Y mientras m&#225;s lo pienso, menos me parece una casualidad. Entend&#237;a demasiado bien el poder de la ropa como para vestirse as&#237; por accidente.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic" width="1456" height="1945" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1945,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:910834,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/196341427?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Un6s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F265ae875-9068-4037-a0a0-ec0d53610ccb_3066x4096.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Lee Alexander McQueen naci&#243; en Londres en 1969 y creci&#243; en el East End, en una familia trabajadora. Su padre era taxista. A los 16 a&#241;os dej&#243; la escuela y entr&#243; como aprendiz en Savile Row, primero en Anderson &amp; Sheppard y despu&#233;s en Gieves &amp; Hawkes. Ah&#237; aprendi&#243; sastrer&#237;a desde el trabajo real: el patr&#243;n, la manga, el hombro, la ca&#237;da, el peso de la tela y la precisi&#243;n de una costura. Antes de Central Saint Martins, antes de Givenchy, antes de los grandes shows, &#233;l ya sab&#237;a c&#243;mo se construye una prenda desde adentro.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic" width="1456" height="1085" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8uTq!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9f5ec1f7-9fde-4a1b-ae04-03ace8a408b7_2048x1526.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ese dato cambia mucho la lectura de su forma de vestir. Para alguien formado en Savile Row, la ropa empieza antes de la foto. Empieza en la estructura. En c&#243;mo una chamarra cambia la postura. En c&#243;mo una cintura modifica la forma de caminar. En c&#243;mo una prenda puede hacer que tu cuerpo se vea fuerte, fr&#225;gil, r&#237;gido, elegante o extra&#241;o. McQueen conoc&#237;a esa parte desde joven. Su relaci&#243;n con la ropa ven&#237;a de la mesa de corte, de las pruebas, del ajuste y de la mano encima de la tela.</p><p>Por eso sus jeans y playeras se sienten casi como ropa de trabajo. Como una forma pr&#225;ctica de estar cerca del proceso. Quien est&#225; cortando, ajustando, probando y resolviendo problemas en un taller necesita moverse. La moda vista desde fuera puede parecer brillo, fiesta y foto, pero por dentro tambi&#233;n tiene horas de espalda, presi&#243;n, presupuestos, errores, fittings, costureras, piezas que fallan y decisiones que nadie ve. McQueen parec&#237;a m&#225;s cerca de esa parte que de la fiesta despu&#233;s.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic" width="1456" height="1738" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!c1ID!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4098c8a5-5d4f-43da-9cfd-e50cdaa68aac_3432x4096.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg" width="1456" height="1941" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1yGz!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F79b35477-1464-415b-abd3-dc677470a386_1530x2040.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Tambi&#233;n hay algo de clase en esa decisi&#243;n. La moda puede abrir espacio para la imaginaci&#243;n, pero tambi&#233;n usa el gusto como filtro social. C&#243;mo hablas, c&#243;mo caminas, qu&#233; referencias tienes y qu&#233; tan c&#243;modo te ves en ciertos lugares. McQueen entr&#243; a ese mundo cargando una energ&#237;a m&#225;s &#225;spera que la elegancia pulida de muchas casas de lujo. Su playera, sus jeans y su forma seca de moverse manten&#237;an algo de su origen. Algo del East End. Algo del backstage. Algo de alguien que pod&#237;a estar rodeado de editores, compradores, celebridades y ejecutivos, pero segu&#237;a pareciendo m&#225;s cercano al taller que al sal&#243;n principal.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic" width="1456" height="1941" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5JiE!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff052a591-8c51-4fd1-9c91-fc208ba65f59_1530x2040.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Y aun as&#237;, McQueen entr&#243; al sistema grande. En 1996 fue nombrado director creativo de Givenchy. En 2000, su propia marca recibi&#243; inversi&#243;n de Gucci Group. Lleg&#243; al lujo global, a las tiendas, a la prensa internacional, a las celebridades, a la presi&#243;n comercial. Pero incluso dentro de esa maquinaria conserv&#243; algo de trabajador especializado. Pod&#237;a hablar de muerte, historia, sexualidad o fantas&#237;a, pero tambi&#233;n de vender ropa, sostener un negocio y hacer prendas que alguien pudiera usar.</p><p>Muchas veces se habla de McQueen desde la oscuridad, el trauma y el espect&#225;culo. Claro que esa parte est&#225; ah&#237;. Pero tambi&#233;n estaba el dise&#241;ador pr&#225;ctico, el que entend&#237;a que un desfile pod&#237;a sacudir a la industria y al mismo tiempo la marca ten&#237;a que funcionar. Esa parte le quita un poco de mito y lo vuelve m&#225;s humano. McQueen pod&#237;a construir una escena enorme, pero ven&#237;a de saber d&#243;nde poner una pinza, c&#243;mo cortar un hombro y c&#243;mo hacer que una prenda cargara el cuerpo de otra manera.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic" width="1456" height="1941" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/c4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1941,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:576696,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/196341427?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jRty!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4de2eb4-cd64-47e8-af13-e039b09c3ebe_1650x2200.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ah&#237; entra lo fuerte de su ropa personal. Pod&#237;a crear im&#225;genes inmensas, pero &#233;l se quedaba en una zona simple. En Highland Rape, de 1995, trabaj&#243; con referencias a su herencia escocesa y a la violencia hist&#243;rica de las Highland Clearances. En No. 13, de 1999, cerr&#243; con Shalom Harlow sobre una plataforma giratoria mientras dos robots industriales pintaban su vestido blanco. En VOSS, de 2001, encerr&#243; a las modelos dentro de un cubo de cristal con una atm&#243;sfera cl&#237;nica, tensa, casi de encierro. En Plato&#8217;s Atlantis, de 2010, imagin&#243; cuerpos adaptados a un futuro acu&#225;tico y llev&#243; la pasarela hacia una idea de evoluci&#243;n, tecnolog&#237;a y mutaci&#243;n.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic" width="1456" height="1941" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!pIY5!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb6a064aa-6447-42bd-89f3-555d9aca217f_1692x2256.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic" width="1456" height="1946" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!P8cO!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F07e2ec36-b14b-4032-9354-6e7a888c58e2_1532x2048.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ah&#237; estaba el espect&#225;culo. Ah&#237; estaba el drama. Ah&#237; estaba la imagen grande.</p><p>Su cuerpo pod&#237;a quedarse afuera.</p><p>Me gusta pensar que ah&#237; hab&#237;a una forma de control. Decid&#237;a d&#243;nde poner la intensidad. Su ropa diaria dejaba que la colecci&#243;n cargara con todo: historia, miedo, deseo, humor, violencia, belleza, oficio, tecnolog&#237;a. &#201;l pod&#237;a salir con jeans porque la pasarela acababa de decir suficiente.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic" width="1456" height="1941" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1941,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:292923,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/196341427?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!gaK0!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9a543b42-36fa-4de3-a4df-0cd5c7c0da3b_1662x2216.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Tambi&#233;n vale la pena decirlo: McQueen s&#237; ten&#237;a gusto personal. Reducirlo a &#8220;se vest&#237;a simple&#8221; borra una capa importante. Compraba Comme des Gar&#231;ons, admiraba a Rei Kawakubo y en distintos momentos us&#243; prendas con m&#225;s intenci&#243;n de la que aparentaban. Incluso lleg&#243; a hablar de la ropa masculina como algo ligado a la sutileza, al buen gusto y al uso real. Esa frase dice bastante. Su sencillez ven&#237;a de alguien que sab&#237;a leer la ropa desde un lugar muy fino.</p><p>La diferencia estaba en que rara vez parec&#237;a interesado en robarle c&#225;mara a su propia obra.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic" width="1456" height="1938" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6_Gr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf80dca3-4be0-4e81-81df-87f47e155223_1660x2210.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Y eso se siente cada vez menos com&#250;n. Hoy casi cualquier creador termina convertido en contenido. El dise&#241;ador, el m&#250;sico, el fot&#243;grafo, el director creativo, el editor, el estilista: todos tienen que mostrar qu&#233; usan, qu&#233; escuchan, qu&#233; compran, c&#243;mo trabajan, c&#243;mo viven, c&#243;mo llegan al evento y c&#243;mo salen del after. La obra circula pegada a la personalidad. A veces la pieza importa tanto como la foto del creador junto a la pieza.</p><p>McQueen ven&#237;a de otra &#233;poca medi&#225;tica, claro, pero tambi&#233;n hab&#237;a algo en &#233;l que resist&#237;a esa l&#243;gica. Su fuerza estaba concentrada en la colecci&#243;n. En el show. En la prenda. En lo que pasaba cuando la ropa entraba al cuerpo de una modelo y empezaba a cargar una historia.</p><p>Por eso su salida al final del desfile tiene algo tan particular. Muchas veces se ve como alguien que acepta el aplauso sin instalarse demasiado en &#233;l. La ovaci&#243;n era para &#233;l, pero su cuerpo parec&#237;a querer devolverla a la ropa. Esa incomodidad cambia la forma en que lo vemos. &#201;l pod&#237;a construir escenas enormes, pero su persona diaria no compet&#237;a con ellas.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hhR3!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e144d2b-c6bd-4c43-9ba9-6eae33c2c585_1530x2040.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hhR3!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1e144d2b-c6bd-4c43-9ba9-6eae33c2c585_1530x2040.heic 424w, 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic" width="1456" height="1941" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1941,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:347072,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/196341427?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Dfec!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F20a02f17-15c2-44b8-8fe6-9041d82b29e0_1530x2040.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Tambi&#233;n hay una lectura muy actual en esa distancia. Mucha gente vive hoy entre varias formas de presentarse. Trabajas en algo formal, pero sigues cuidando tu gusto. Est&#225;s en oficina, agencia, corporativo, estudio, freelance, producci&#243;n o data, pero tambi&#233;n est&#225;s pensando en m&#250;sica, ropa, c&#225;maras, cine, caf&#233;s, conciertos, dise&#241;o, objetos, eventos, marcas y referencias. Hay una negociaci&#243;n diaria entre verte bien y poder funcionar. Entre tener criterio y no sentir que est&#225;s disfrazado. Entre moverte por la ciudad y seguir sintiendo que tu ropa dice algo de ti.</p><p>La ropa simple se vuelve una base para cruzar espacios. Una playera negra, unos jeans, unos tenis buenos o una chamarra con buena ca&#237;da. A veces ah&#237; hay m&#225;s intenci&#243;n que en una prenda llena de se&#241;ales obvias.</p><p>McQueen llevaba esa idea a un extremo distinto. Pod&#237;a crear algunas de las im&#225;genes m&#225;s intensas de la moda contempor&#225;nea y salir vestido como alguien que acababa de apagar la m&#225;quina del taller. En esa decisi&#243;n hab&#237;a una separaci&#243;n entre Lee y Alexander McQueen. Lee, el hombre de Londres, hijo de una familia trabajadora, formado desde abajo. Alexander McQueen, el nombre capaz de convertir una pasarela en una escena hist&#243;rica, emocional y f&#237;sica.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic" width="1456" height="1941" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nTh-!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F096c8b3a-c88e-42d0-bbda-c2ff4379b16b_3066x4088.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>La ropa simple parec&#237;a proteger a Lee. La obra cargaba con Alexander.</p><p>Esa separaci&#243;n me parece central. Usaba la moda para volver m&#225;s visible la realidad. Sus colecciones pod&#237;an verse fant&#225;sticas, pero casi siempre ten&#237;an algo terrestre: violencia, clase, cuerpo, deseo, historia, miedo, belleza, negocio y trabajo. Su imaginaci&#243;n ven&#237;a de mirar cosas duras y convertirlas en forma.</p><p>Por eso la sencillez de su ropa personal pesa tanto. Un dise&#241;ador puede vestirse simple por falta de inter&#233;s en la ropa. McQueen se vest&#237;a simple sabiendo exactamente lo que la ropa pod&#237;a hacer. Sab&#237;a c&#243;mo una silueta cambiaba la actitud de un cuerpo. Sab&#237;a c&#243;mo un cors&#233; pod&#237;a hacer que alguien se viera protegido y expuesto al mismo tiempo. Sab&#237;a c&#243;mo una falda pod&#237;a cargar siglos de historia. Sab&#237;a c&#243;mo una tela cortada con fuerza pod&#237;a decir algo que una explicaci&#243;n volver&#237;a m&#225;s d&#233;bil.</p><p>Con ese nivel de conciencia, ponerse jeans y playera parece una decisi&#243;n de ubicaci&#243;n.</p><p>El drama estaba en la pasarela.</p><p>El oficio estaba en el corte.</p><p>La persona pod&#237;a quedarse en una zona m&#225;s com&#250;n, m&#225;s seca, m&#225;s cercana al taller.</p><p>Por eso vuelvo a esa imagen: un hombre con jeans saliendo despu&#233;s de una escena enorme. Las luces siguen calientes. El p&#250;blico aplaude. La colecci&#243;n todav&#237;a est&#225; en la cabeza de todos. &#201;l aparece un momento, recibe la mirada y se va.</p><p>Esa imagen dice mucho. La pasarela cargaba con todo: historia, drama, trabajo, belleza. Y &#233;l sal&#237;a al final con ropa com&#250;n y por solo unos segundos.</p><p>Como si ah&#237; se separaran las cosas: la persona por un lado y la marca por el otro.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic" width="1456" height="1941" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iERD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F28881528-f277-4495-b6e6-0cad44cafbbc_1650x2200.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[¿La cultura de la cancelación funciona o no?]]></title><description><![CDATA[M&#225;s all&#225; del esc&#225;ndalo: lo que realmente pasa despu&#233;s]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/la-cultura-de-la-cancelacion-funciona</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/la-cultura-de-la-cancelacion-funciona</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2026 02:29:18 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>M&#225;s all&#225; del esc&#225;ndalo, a m&#237; me interesa entender todo el tema de la cancelaci&#243;n como fen&#243;meno social. Me intriga ver c&#243;mo una sociedad castiga p&#250;blicamente, c&#243;mo construye la idea de un l&#237;mite y qu&#233; pasa con ese l&#237;mite cuando pasa el tiempo.</p><p>Al principio, muchas cancelaciones se sent&#237;an como un final verdadero. Hab&#237;a una idea colectiva de consecuencia definitiva, de &#8220;hasta aqu&#237; llegaste&#8221;. Con los a&#241;os y con m&#225;s casos encima, empez&#243; a verse otra cosa. El castigo existe, la indignaci&#243;n existe, algunas puertas se cierran, pero despu&#233;s entra el tiempo, cambia la conversaci&#243;n, aparece obra nueva, aparece una narrativa distinta y una parte del p&#250;blico simplemente se acomoda. Unos lo justifican, otros se cansan del tema, otros siguen consumiendo y ya.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p>Con Ye, ese proceso se ve claro porque hay historia detr&#225;s. En 2022 perdi&#243; relaciones importantes con varias marcas y sali&#243; de ciertos circuitos grandes. Ese momento movi&#243; dinero, distribuci&#243;n y legitimidad. A partir de ah&#237;, el panorama cambi&#243;. Este a&#241;o le cerraron puertas en Europa: Reino Unido le neg&#243; la entrada y eso tir&#243; su participaci&#243;n en Londres; en otros pa&#237;ses tambi&#233;n se frenaron fechas. Al mismo tiempo, sigui&#243; teniendo actividad en Estados Unidos y M&#233;xico, y mantiene presencia en otros mercados. Cuando junto todo eso, veo una figura que sigue en circulaci&#243;n bajo otras condiciones, con un mapa distinto y con m&#225;s restricciones, pero sin desaparecer.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg" width="724" height="408.19740777667" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!aoHq!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1c7aebfa-0677-4c01-8ac1-bb22466735be_2006x1131.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Por eso <em>Bully</em> me interesa como proceso. Ye lleva tiempo lanzando m&#250;sica como un evento p&#250;blico. Desde hace a&#241;os, sus discos salen acompa&#241;ados de shows, sesiones de escucha y una conversaci&#243;n que se construye al mismo tiempo que la obra. <em>Bully</em> sigue esa l&#243;gica. El disco, las im&#225;genes, el show y el relato salen juntos como parte de un mismo sistema.</p><p>En ese sistema, el eje es Saint, pero alrededor hay un c&#237;rculo creativo bastante claro. La portada est&#225; firmada por Daid&#333; Moriyama, un fot&#243;grafo japon&#233;s clave en la imagen urbana contempor&#225;nea. El show en Los &#193;ngeles se present&#243; con dise&#241;o de set de Ye junto a Aus Taylor, quien ha trabajado en la direcci&#243;n visual de sus proyectos recientes. En la est&#233;tica del corto aparece FFFPOSTALSERVICE, reinterpretando m&#225;scaras mexicanas desde Jap&#243;n y metiendo otra capa cultural al proyecto.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3xeF!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff6515bc3-33f3-4abf-b5f9-eb8849deeb66_1080x1440.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!3xeF!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff6515bc3-33f3-4abf-b5f9-eb8849deeb66_1080x1440.jpeg 424w, 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fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg" width="1080" height="1440" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1440,&quot;width&quot;:1080,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:83848,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194866208?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!7NSV!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8ebb5ad9-02a9-4975-b49c-5a55e7d55992_1080x1440.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>En la m&#250;sica tambi&#233;n hay nombres fuertes: Travis Scott, CeeLo Green, Don Toliver, Peso Pluma y Ty Dolla $ign, cada uno con peso dentro de la industria. Y en la parte de lanzamiento, el proyecto se mueve desde YZY en conjunto con Gamma, una plataforma que busca dar m&#225;s control creativo a los artistas. Cuando ves todo eso junto, aparece una red de creativos, productores, fot&#243;grafos, dise&#241;adores y artistas que siguen apostando por el proyecto y le dan forma p&#250;blica al regreso.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic" width="1456" height="1395" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1395,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:444749,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194866208?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Ok0F!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3bee8400-ffc8-4b8a-bbcf-655c98ffa04d_2400x2300.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>La parte que m&#225;s me brinca est&#225; en el origen del disco. Ye cuenta que vio a Saint pegarle a otro ni&#241;o y que, cuando le pregunt&#243; por qu&#233; lo hab&#237;a hecho, la respuesta fue que el otro era &#8220;d&#233;bil&#8221;. De ah&#237; sale <em>Bully</em>. Esa historia por s&#237; sola ya es inc&#243;moda. Lo que vuelve m&#225;s raro el caso es la decisi&#243;n que viene despu&#233;s: tomar esa escena, ponerla al centro y convertirla en t&#237;tulo, concepto y base del proyecto.</p><p>Ah&#237; est&#225; el punto que me interesa de verdad. Vienes de a&#241;os marcados por confrontaci&#243;n, agresividad y rechazo p&#250;blico, y el regreso vuelve a construirse alrededor de esa misma energ&#237;a. Fuerza, dominio y debilidad siguen ocupando el centro. Ah&#237; es donde se siente el choque con la idea de cambio. Seg&#250;n ven&#237;a una correcci&#243;n, seg&#250;n ven&#237;a un l&#237;mite, y el punto de partida vuelve a ser la violencia.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic" width="1456" height="818" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hrGn!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F2072d2d6-8251-4f45-845a-a292403595b8_2800x1574.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ese detalle cambia la lectura completa del regreso. Ya no es solo alguien sacando m&#250;sica otra vez. Es alguien eligiendo con claridad qu&#233; historia va a cargar su vuelta y qu&#233; valores va a poner al frente. En este caso, esa elecci&#243;n toma una escena violenta y la convierte en algo valioso dentro del proyecto.</p><p>Y ah&#237; es donde entra el punto m&#225;s inc&#243;modo para el p&#250;blico. Como espectador, la reacci&#243;n m&#225;s f&#225;cil ser&#237;a cortar y ya, dejar de escuchar, dejar de poner atenci&#243;n. Eso es lo que en teor&#237;a deber&#237;a pasar. Pero en la pr&#225;ctica no pasa as&#237;. El proyecto sale, el show se llena, las colaboraciones siguen, la conversaci&#243;n regresa y una parte del p&#250;blico incluso responde con m&#225;s inter&#233;s.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!zRez!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F841f3e73-26ef-4751-a892-b633e548876e_1080x1347.jpeg" width="1080" height="1347" 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class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg" width="1080" height="1346" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!puJP!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff315fc5c-4841-4b07-9e12-01038e30fb2a_1080x1346.jpeg 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ah&#237; es donde el fen&#243;meno se vuelve m&#225;s interesante. No se trata solo de si alguien hace algo mal o si merece castigo. Se trata de entender por qu&#233;, con el tiempo, la atenci&#243;n vuelve, el consumo sigue y la figura recupera espacio. Una parte de la gente decide seguir, otra decide ignorar el tema, otra se engancha con lo nuevo. Y al final, la figura vuelve a existir dentro del sistema.</p><p>Por eso a m&#237; cada vez me cuesta m&#225;s ver la cancelaci&#243;n como un final. Veo consecuencias reales, p&#233;rdidas reales y cierres reales. Veo tambi&#233;n obra nueva, creativos, promotores, p&#250;blico y una industria que sabe reorganizar el terreno. Cuando todo eso se junta, lo que aparece es otra cosa: la cancelaci&#243;n muchas veces no borra a alguien, cambia las condiciones bajo las que puede regresar.</p><p>Y en el caso de <em>Bully</em>, ese regreso deja algo muy claro. Despu&#233;s de todo el castigo y despu&#233;s de toda la conversaci&#243;n sobre l&#237;mites, la violencia sigue ocupando el lugar principal.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Nicolas Jaar y cómo hacer música con sentido político]]></title><description><![CDATA['Sirens' cumple 10 a&#241;os]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/nicolas-jaar-y-como-hacer-musica</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/nicolas-jaar-y-como-hacer-musica</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 14 Apr 2026 03:50:30 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h3PG!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F594cb1ad-61d9-419e-81ed-6b7a1ea502e7_2400x2400.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Este a&#241;o <em>Sirens</em> de Nicolas Jaar cumple diez a&#241;os, y en cuanto pens&#233; en eso se me vino a la cabeza una canci&#243;n muy espec&#237;fica: &#8220;No&#8221;. Vuelvo a ella seguido, casi cada semana, y aparece todav&#237;a m&#225;s cuando ando metido en temas de pol&#237;tica, poder, memoria e historia. Tambi&#233;n se me vinieron a la mente las entrevistas que Jaar dio cuando sali&#243; el disco, sobre todo las de <em>The Fader</em> y <em>Pitchfork</em>. Ah&#237; hablaba con mucha claridad de Chile, de su familia, de Pinochet y de una idea muy dura: un sistema puede seguir vivo durante muchos a&#241;os, incluso despu&#233;s de que se va la figura que lo encabez&#243;.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h3PG!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F594cb1ad-61d9-419e-81ed-6b7a1ea502e7_2400x2400.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!h3PG!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F594cb1ad-61d9-419e-81ed-6b7a1ea502e7_2400x2400.heic 424w, 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class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic" width="1456" height="1365" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1365,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:641924,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194139825?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!sYOs!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0a1398f7-cd83-47ba-8b54-4a8b04a0974a_2400x2250.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p><em>Sirens</em> sali&#243; el 30 de septiembre de 2016. Jaar lo public&#243; en un momento donde el ambiente pol&#237;tico ya ven&#237;a cargado. En Estados Unidos iba subiendo Donald Trump con una campa&#241;a marcada por un tono nativista y un discurso agresivo contra migrantes. Jaar estaba viviendo en Brooklyn y ven&#237;a trabajando el disco desde 2015, as&#237; que el &#225;lbum naci&#243; dentro de ese clima, aunque su mirada iba m&#225;s al fondo que a la noticia del d&#237;a.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!IPA3!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7b53ad38-b138-41b6-9215-e1097ba5c281_3000x1930.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Una parte clave para entrar al disco es Chile. Augusto Pinochet fue el militar que encabez&#243; el golpe de Estado de 1973 contra el gobierno de Salvador Allende y despu&#233;s gobern&#243; Chile como dictador hasta 1990. Durante su gobierno hubo asesinatos, desapariciones, tortura, persecuci&#243;n pol&#237;tica y censura. Su nombre pesa tanto porque no se qued&#243; solo en la violencia. Tambi&#233;n qued&#243; ligado a una forma de organizar el pa&#237;s que marc&#243; a Chile durante d&#233;cadas.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic" width="1456" height="1130" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1130,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:384362,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194139825?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tESH!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F33eca4c1-abdd-4d7f-818a-f3f4ae46f1e7_2048x1590.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ah&#237; entra Nicolas Jaar. Naci&#243; en Nueva York en 1990, pocos meses despu&#233;s de la salida de Pinochet. Sus pap&#225;s son chilenos. De ni&#241;o vivi&#243; en Chile con su mam&#225; y a&#241;os despu&#233;s volvi&#243; a Estados Unidos. En las entrevistas de 2016 contaba esa relaci&#243;n partida con su identidad: en Chile cargaba con haber nacido en Nueva York; en Estados Unidos cargaba con ser sudamericano dentro de espacios blancos y acomodados. Esa vida entre dos pa&#237;ses, dos idiomas y dos formas de mirar el mundo est&#225; metida en <em>Sirens</em> desde el principio.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0EAe!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7c65686a-7a4a-4db1-ae29-9d0275e875d9_2400x1606.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!0EAe!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7c65686a-7a4a-4db1-ae29-9d0275e875d9_2400x1606.heic 424w, 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class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img 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data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:2201,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:276975,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194139825?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wwqs!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff28712dc-0518-4ea0-8144-5321f0460727_1498x2264.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Tambi&#233;n importa lo que pas&#243; en Chile despu&#233;s de 1990. El pa&#237;s cambi&#243; de gobierno, pero varias reglas de la dictadura siguieron en pie. Durante el r&#233;gimen de Pinochet se afianz&#243; un sistema de libre mercado muy fuerte. Las pensiones quedaron en manos privadas en los a&#241;os ochenta, y la educaci&#243;n, la salud y otros servicios quedaron muy marcados por la l&#243;gica del dinero y por un Estado m&#225;s chico. Los gobiernos que llegaron despu&#233;s mantuvieron buena parte de esa estructura. Chile creci&#243;, pero tambi&#233;n arrastr&#243; desigualdad, malestar y una relaci&#243;n muy da&#241;ada entre la gente y las instituciones.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic" width="1456" height="819" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:819,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:509704,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194139825?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_hBr!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F98466bc4-046d-41db-be09-5bd54f4fca29_2400x1350.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Por eso &#8220;No&#8221; pesa tanto dentro de <em>Sirens</em>. La frase &#8220;Ya dijimos no pero el s&#237; est&#225; en todo&#8221; sale de la votaci&#243;n de 1988 en Chile, cuando la gente decidi&#243; que Pinochet deb&#237;a dejar el poder. Jaar toma ese momento y le da otro peso. La idea es muy clara: Pinochet se fue, y muchas partes del sistema siguieron ah&#237;. Siguieron en la econom&#237;a, en la desigualdad, en la forma de mover el pa&#237;s y en la manera en que el poder se reparte y se protege. Esa lectura aparece de forma directa en la entrevista con <em>The Fader</em>, donde Jaar habla del efecto que Pinochet sigue teniendo en Chile incluso despu&#233;s de su salida.</p><p>Ese punto siempre me ha parecido el coraz&#243;n del disco. Jaar lleva la pol&#237;tica a un terreno muy concreto: familia, infancia, idioma, ciudad y memoria. Ah&#237; est&#225; una de las razones por las que <em>Sirens</em> se siente tan fuerte. La historia de Chile entra al disco como una historia p&#250;blica y tambi&#233;n como una historia &#237;ntima. Jaar incluso cont&#243; que tocar en el Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos en Chile lo empuj&#243; a pensar con m&#225;s fuerza en el peso de Pinochet, en la huella de Reagan en Estados Unidos y en la idea de que ciertos gobiernos dejan efectos que duran mucho m&#225;s que su tiempo oficial en el poder.</p><p>El proceso del &#225;lbum tambi&#233;n ayuda a entenderlo. Jaar cont&#243; que escribi&#243; <em>Sirens</em> durante nueve meses de 2015 en su casa de Brooklyn siguiendo una rutina muy estricta: se levantaba temprano, abr&#237;a libros en p&#225;ginas al azar, le&#237;a lo primero que aparec&#237;a y escrib&#237;a usando asociaci&#243;n libre durante horas. Luego ven&#237;a el otro trabajo: recortar, ordenar, dejar silencios, tensar el sonido. Esa mezcla entre azar y control se escucha en todo el disco. Las canciones tienen aire, pero tambi&#233;n una presi&#243;n muy fuerte por dentro.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic" width="1456" height="778" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:778,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:302759,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194139825?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!OZpK!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F776f7fa3-4ea7-4587-b3b5-a01abbeabc98_2250x1202.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>La portada empuja esa misma idea. La edici&#243;n f&#237;sica deluxe de <em>Sirens</em> ven&#237;a con tinta para raspar y una moneda de 25 centavos. Debajo aparec&#237;a una imagen de <em>A Logo for America</em>, la obra que Alfredo Jaar, pap&#225; de Nicolas, mostr&#243; en Times Square en 1987. Esa pieza cuestiona la idea de que Estados Unidos use la palabra &#8220;Am&#233;rica&#8221; como si el resto del continente quedara borrado. En <em>Sirens</em>, esa imagen funciona como otra capa del mismo tema: historia, poder, lenguaje, borrado y memoria.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp" width="1456" height="819" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/d0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:819,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:167484,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/webp&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/194139825?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!r7uT!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fd0b6ee27-f19c-4f35-b53c-cde3373fdcea_2560x1440.webp 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Y luego est&#225; el sonido. &#8220;Killing Time&#8221; abre con una bandera movi&#233;ndose y con vidrio rompi&#233;ndose. &#8220;Leaves&#8221; mete una grabaci&#243;n de Nicolas de ni&#241;o hablando con su pap&#225;. &#8220;No&#8221; lleva al centro la historia pol&#237;tica de Chile con letra en espa&#241;ol y una energ&#237;a contenida que carga tensi&#243;n todo el tiempo. El tracklist oficial del disco va armando esa ruta: memoria, cuerpo, quiebre, historia y un cierre que deja preguntas abiertas en lugar de respuestas f&#225;ciles.</p><p>Diez a&#241;os despu&#233;s, esa idea sigue viva. En 2019 Chile estall&#243; en protestas masivas por el costo de la vida, las pensiones, la desigualdad y el cansancio con reglas que ven&#237;an de d&#233;cadas atr&#225;s. En 2020 una amplia mayor&#237;a vot&#243; por abrir el proceso para cambiar la Constituci&#243;n nacida en dictadura. Ese camino se volvi&#243; dif&#237;cil y enredado despu&#233;s, pero dej&#243; algo muy claro: la herencia de Pinochet segu&#237;a dentro de la vida pol&#237;tica chilena y segu&#237;a tocando temas muy concretos como pensiones, salud, educaci&#243;n y reparto del poder.</p><p>Por eso sigo volviendo a &#8220;No&#8221;. Esa canci&#243;n junta historia chilena, memoria familiar y una lectura muy precisa de c&#243;mo opera el poder con el paso del tiempo. <em>Sirens</em> hace algo que pocas obras logran hacer bien: pone la pol&#237;tica dentro de la vida diaria, dentro del idioma, dentro de la familia, dentro de una sensaci&#243;n que se queda rondando mucho despu&#233;s de que termina el disco. Diez a&#241;os despu&#233;s, sigue abriendo la misma pregunta: cu&#225;nto de lo que vivimos hoy viene de reglas viejas que siguen respirando debajo de todo.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic" width="1364" height="2048" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!W-9s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73c7bab0-f4e1-47d9-b353-3fd0b9202f84_1364x2048.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Te mintieron… el hype es una ilusión]]></title><description><![CDATA[Off-White en Costco]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/te-mintieron-el-hype-es-una-ilusion</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/te-mintieron-el-hype-es-una-ilusion</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2026 00:51:21 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hace unos d&#237;as empez&#243; a circular algo que a muchos nos vol&#243; la cabeza: <strong>Costco est&#225; vendiendo ropa de Off-White</strong>.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg" width="2160" height="2172" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:2172,&quot;width&quot;:2160,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:493476,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fceb9ea5f-4220-41e3-b0c4-9bf76edd9365_2160x2700.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!6dDW!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb7244942-3953-42f6-bf25-ced14a7ade0c_2160x2172.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>S&#237;, Off-White. La marca fundada por Virgil Abloh que durante a&#241;os fue uno de los nombres m&#225;s fuertes dentro del streetwear de lujo. Playeras y hoodies que antes aparec&#237;an en boutiques, tiendas conceptuales o p&#225;ginas de reventa ahora pueden terminar en el mismo carrito donde alguien compra cereal, detergente y papel de ba&#241;o.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p>La escena se siente rara. Durante mucho tiempo Off-White estuvo rodeada de deseo. Sus piezas se agotaban r&#225;pido, generaban filas y en reventa pod&#237;an costar mucho m&#225;s que el precio original.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg" width="2088" height="2067" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/fc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:2067,&quot;width&quot;:2088,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:146226,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9bb94acb-90a9-44a9-8506-3d500a713535_2088x2610.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Iuqj!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffc5bcd20-ac6c-4356-ab86-628162285381_2088x2067.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Ahora algunas de esas prendas aparecen en Costco por alrededor de 80 d&#243;lares.</p><p>Cuando ves algo as&#237; es inevitable preguntarte qu&#233; pas&#243;.</p><p>Pero m&#225;s all&#225; de la sorpresa, la escena tambi&#233;n revela algo interesante sobre c&#243;mo funcionan las marcas hoy.</p><h2>C&#243;mo Off-White se volvi&#243; un fen&#243;meno</h2><p>Para entender por qu&#233; esto llama tanto la atenci&#243;n hay que recordar lo que Off-White represent&#243; durante la d&#233;cada pasada.</p><p>Virgil Abloh ten&#237;a una forma muy particular de pensar el dise&#241;o. Ven&#237;a de estudiar arquitectura y se mov&#237;a entre distintos mundos: la m&#250;sica, el dise&#241;o gr&#225;fico, el arte y la moda. Durante a&#241;os trabaj&#243; cerca de Kanye West y particip&#243; en proyectos creativos donde muchas disciplinas se mezclaban.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic" width="1456" height="1432" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!5i6s!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F04fb40c6-f083-4d53-b595-17196d9c8a81_2400x2360.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Cuando lanz&#243; Off-White en 2013, su idea era clara. Tomar c&#243;digos del streetwear y llevarlos al sistema del lujo.</p><p>Las comillas impresas en objetos comunes, las flechas diagonales y las cintas industriales se volvieron parte de un lenguaje visual f&#225;cil de reconocer. Las prendas eran simples, pero el contexto cultural alrededor hac&#237;a que se sintieran especiales.</p><p>Una sudadera pod&#237;a parecer algo m&#225;s que ropa.</p><p>Durante varios a&#241;os Off-White estuvo muy presente en la conversaci&#243;n cultural. Colaboraciones con Nike, presencia en pasarelas de Par&#237;s y una relaci&#243;n muy cercana con la m&#250;sica y la cultura digital.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic" width="1374" height="2048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:2048,&quot;width&quot;:1374,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:300447,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!SMQR!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F45ede214-182a-41ac-994e-f634acc2d84a_1374x2048.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>En ese ambiente la marca creci&#243; r&#225;pido.</p><p>Y ah&#237; aparece una palabra clave: <strong>hype</strong>.</p><h2>El motor del hype</h2><p>El hype es uno de los motores m&#225;s fuertes dentro del consumo actual.</p><p>Funciona como una energ&#237;a colectiva. De pronto una marca, un objeto o una colaboraci&#243;n empieza a llamar la atenci&#243;n de todo el mundo al mismo tiempo. Aparecen filas, listas de espera y precios inflados en reventa.</p><p>Algo se vuelve deseable porque parece importante dentro de una comunidad.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic" width="1456" height="1452" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1452,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:308294,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Zts4!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9cc645e-67bf-4a30-973e-2de7d2be4441_2048x2042.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Mientras m&#225;s gente habla de un objeto, m&#225;s valor parece tener.</p><p>Pero el hype tambi&#233;n tiene una caracter&#237;stica muy clara.</p><p>Es inestable.</p><p>Puede inflar algo muy r&#225;pido. Tambi&#233;n puede desinflarlo con la misma velocidad. Un producto puede pasar de ser muy buscado a aparecer con descuento en poco tiempo.</p><p>El objeto no cambi&#243;.</p><p>Lo que cambi&#243; fue la percepci&#243;n.</p><h2>Cuando el contexto desaparece</h2><p>Ah&#237; es donde la escena de Off-White en Costco se vuelve interesante.</p><p>Porque revela algo que a veces olvidamos. Los objetos por s&#237; mismos casi nunca tienen tanto significado como pensamos. Una sudadera, unos tenis o una playera siguen siendo eso: objetos.</p><p>El valor aparece cuando existe un contexto cultural alrededor.</p><p>La m&#250;sica que los acompa&#241;a.<br>Las ideas que representan.<br>Las personas que los usan.</p><p>Durante un tiempo Off-White estuvo conectada con un momento cultural muy espec&#237;fico. El cruce entre streetwear, arte contempor&#225;neo, lujo y cultura digital.</p><p>Ese contexto hac&#237;a que las prendas se sintieran cargadas de significado.</p><p>Cuando el contexto cambia, la percepci&#243;n tambi&#233;n cambia.</p><p>La misma sudadera puede sentirse distinta dependiendo del lugar donde aparece.</p><p>En una tienda de lujo puede parecer dise&#241;o.<br>En una pasarela puede parecer moda.<br>En Costco puede parecer simplemente ropa.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic" width="1456" height="1823" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/bc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1823,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:756631,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NEus!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbc30f6fe-89c4-4c09-9f56-f6876c975e62_2156x2700.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><h2>El problema de confundir hype con cultura</h2><p>El hype siempre ha existido. Las modas aparecen, crecen y despu&#233;s pierden fuerza.</p><p>El problema aparece cuando se confunde hype con significado.</p><p>Mucha gente termina comprando objetos pensando que est&#225; comprando cultura. En realidad muchas veces se compra una sensaci&#243;n de pertenencia. La idea de estar dentro de algo que parece importante.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic" width="1456" height="974" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:974,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:1008031,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!TVq1!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7341a670-492e-4b00-8e14-81c1f96ea104_2200x1472.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Cuando detr&#225;s de ese objeto no hay ideas, arte o una conversaci&#243;n cultural fuerte, el hype pierde fuerza.</p><p>El objeto sigue siendo el mismo.</p><p>La percepci&#243;n cambia.</p><h2>Lo que realmente permanece</h2><p>Al final lo verdaderamente interesante no son las marcas ni los logos.</p><p>Lo interesante es la cultura que les da sentido.</p><p>Cuando un objeto est&#225; conectado con arte, con ideas o con un momento cultural claro, su significado se mantiene incluso cuando el mercado cambia.</p><p>Las tendencias pasan.<br>Las modas cambian.<br>Las marcas suben y bajan.</p><p>La cultura permanece.</p><p>Y quiz&#225; esa es la lecci&#243;n m&#225;s clara de ver Off-White en Costco.</p><p>El hype va y viene.</p><p>La cultura es lo &#250;nico que realmente permanece.</p><div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic" width="1456" height="2037" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:2037,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:1076617,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:true,&quot;topImage&quot;:false,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://archivonaranja.substack.com/i/190444627?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!riXU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F480ad50b-dedd-4ea5-955f-921b1780e6fb_2800x3918.heic 1456w" sizes="auto, 100vw" loading="lazy"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" class="icon-noB79L"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image buttonBase-GK1x3M"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2 icon-noB79L"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[¿El cine mexicano se tiene que hacer viral para poder ser valorado?]]></title><description><![CDATA[En 2025 Chicuarotes regres&#243; al centro de la conversaci&#243;n por un motivo raro: un trend en TikTok.]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/el-cine-mexicano-se-tiene-que-hacer</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/el-cine-mexicano-se-tiene-que-hacer</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 16 Jan 2026 18:26:01 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!m6IM!,w_256,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Facb5c4e1-76c8-4a8c-95fe-a059fe36aa28_600x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>En 2025<em> Chicuarotes</em> regres&#243; al centro de la conversaci&#243;n por un motivo raro: un trend en TikTok. Una pel&#237;cula filmada para incomodar reaparece como disfraz, gesto y audio reutilizable. La imagen se replica y el contexto se queda corto. Lo que en la pel&#237;cula era s&#237;mbolo de exclusi&#243;n se vuelve en una est&#233;tica repetible para todos.</p><p>Ese choque sirve como detonante para hablar del cine mexicano completo, porque revela una tensi&#243;n actual: gran parte del valor cultural se est&#225; decidiendo en el feed. Una obra puede volver &#8220;por las razones equivocadas&#8221; y, aun as&#237;, abrir la conversaci&#243;n correcta.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p>En teor&#237;a, el cine se valora por lo que hace en una sala: c&#243;mo construye una historia, c&#243;mo crea atm&#243;sfera, qu&#233; propone con sus personajes, qu&#233; deja en la cabeza al salir. En la pr&#225;ctica, una parte creciente del cine se est&#225; valorando por otra v&#237;a: <strong>por su rendimiento como fragmento</strong>. Un plano que se entiende solo. Un gesto que se puede copiar. Un look que funciona fuera del relato. Una frase que suena bien sobre cualquier video. La pel&#237;cula se convierte en materia prima para otro lenguaje.</p><p>Ah&#237; aparece el primer ruido: cuando una obra se vuelve tendencia, el &#8220;&#233;xito&#8221; puede significar cosas muy distintas. Puede significar que un p&#250;blico nuevo lleg&#243; a verla completa y la discuti&#243;. Puede significar que la pel&#237;cula se redujo a una postal. Puede significar que se transform&#243; en disfraz, en meme, en coreograf&#237;a. En ese mundo, una obra circula m&#225;s, pero tambi&#233;n se simplifica m&#225;s.</p><p>Lo de <em>Chicuarotes</em> es &#250;til porque funciona como radiograf&#237;a. El centro de la pel&#237;cula es inc&#243;modo: dos adolescentes que intentan salir de la precariedad por cualquier v&#237;a, y un entorno que empuja hacia la violencia, la humillaci&#243;n y la desesperanza. Su lenguaje es &#225;spero. Su mirada incomoda. Su universo pide que el espectador se quede, aunque quiera apartar la vista. Y aun as&#237;, la puerta por la que hoy vuelve a entrar a la conversaci&#243;n no es una conversaci&#243;n cr&#237;tica. Es un juego visual impulsado por TikTok.</p><p>Eso no vuelve &#8220;mala&#8221; a la gente que participa en el trend. Tampoco vuelve &#8220;buena&#8221; a la pel&#237;cula por default. Lo que pone sobre la mesa es otra cosa: <strong>el sistema de atenci&#243;n cambi&#243;</strong>. Una pel&#237;cula ya no compite solo contra otras pel&#237;culas. Compite contra el scroll, contra el audio del d&#237;a, contra el clip del momento, contra el feed como forma de mirar el mundo. Y en ese sistema, el significado suele perder peso frente a lo replicable.</p><p>La pregunta de fondo no es si <em>Chicuarotes</em> &#8220;mejor&#243;&#8221; con los a&#241;os. La pregunta es qu&#233; tuvo que pasar para que mucha gente volteara a verla. Y lo que pas&#243; fue una din&#225;mica externa al cine: el algoritmo. Una plataforma empuj&#243; una imagen, esa imagen se convirti&#243; en gesto social, y el gesto social empuj&#243; a la pel&#237;cula hacia afuera del nicho.</p><p>Esta l&#243;gica tiene una consecuencia directa: la valoraci&#243;n se mueve de lugar. Antes, una pel&#237;cula &#8220;viv&#237;a&#8221; en salas, cr&#237;tica, festivales, conversaci&#243;n lenta, recomendaciones de boca en boca. Hoy puede vivir como &#8220;momento&#8221; en redes. Puede existir como referencia visual incluso para gente que nunca la vio completa. Puede sonar exagerado, pero ocurre todo el tiempo: pel&#237;culas que se conocen por una escena, por una captura, por un audio o por un &#8220;vibe&#8221;. En ese ecosistema, la obra corre el riesgo de convertirse en etiqueta.</p><p>El caso tambi&#233;n revela una paradoja: cuando una pel&#237;cula entra tarde a la conversaci&#243;n, entra con una lectura distinta a la que ten&#237;a cuando se estren&#243;. La audiencia cambia. El pa&#237;s cambia. La sensibilidad cambia. Una escena que parec&#237;a excesiva en su momento puede sentirse &#8220;normal&#8221; a&#241;os despu&#233;s. Una historia que parec&#237;a lejana puede sentirse familiar. A veces el tiempo hace justicia. A veces el tiempo solo hace costumbre. En ambos casos, la relectura existe, y eso modifica el tipo de valor que se le asigna al cine.</p><p>Y aqu&#237; aparece el verdadero tema: <strong>qu&#233; significa &#8220;valorar&#8221; cine mexicano hoy</strong>. Porque &#8220;valorar&#8221; puede ser taquilla. Puede ser premios. Puede ser conversaci&#243;n cr&#237;tica. Puede ser permanencia cultural. Puede ser que un t&#237;tulo se vuelva parte del lenguaje popular. Puede ser que una pel&#237;cula cambie la vida de un grupo peque&#241;o. Puede ser que se vuelva tendencia. Cada definici&#243;n apunta a un tipo de cine distinto, y cada definici&#243;n tambi&#233;n construye incentivos para lo que se produce ma&#241;ana.</p><p>Por eso conviene abrir el mapa sin prejuicios: el cine mexicano de taquilla, el cine de festival, el documental, el terror, la animaci&#243;n, la s&#225;tira pol&#237;tica, el drama &#237;ntimo. Todo eso convive. Y todo eso compite por lo mismo: pantallas, atenci&#243;n, conversaci&#243;n y memoria.</p><p>Hablar del cine mexicano desde este caso permite hacer preguntas que casi siempre se evitan. Por ejemplo:</p><ul><li><p>Qu&#233; tipo de historias tienen acceso a recursos y campa&#241;as.</p></li><li><p>Qu&#233; tipo de cine se castiga con estrenos cortos y horarios invisibles.</p></li><li><p>Qu&#233; papel juegan los festivales: vitrina real o circuito cerrado.</p></li><li><p>C&#243;mo cambi&#243; la percepci&#243;n del &#8220;buen cine&#8221; en &#233;poca de clips cortos.</p></li><li><p>Qu&#233; tan justo es pedirle a una pel&#237;cula que &#8220;conecte&#8221; en segundos.</p></li><li><p>Qu&#233; responsabilidad tiene el p&#250;blico cuando exige comodidad constante.</p></li><li><p>Qu&#233; responsabilidad tiene la industria cuando apuesta por f&#243;rmulas seguras.</p></li><li><p>Qu&#233; responsabilidad tiene el Estado cuando decide qu&#233; se apoya, qu&#233; se distribuye y qu&#233; se preserva.</p></li></ul><p>El objetivo aqu&#237; no es defender una pel&#237;cula ni atacar otra. El objetivo es entender el sistema que hace que una obra regrese por un camino raro, y usar ese regreso como excusa para mirar el panorama completo: el cine que se hace para durar y el cine que se hace para pegar; el cine que incomoda y el cine que reconforta; el cine que se queda en festivales y el cine que domina conversaci&#243;n ligera; el cine que necesita contexto y el cine que funciona como clip corto.</p><p>Si el valor cultural se decide cada vez m&#225;s por velocidad, una pregunta se vuelve inevitable: &#191;el cine mexicano tiene que volverse viral para tener oportunidad de ser visto con seriedad? Y si la respuesta empieza a acercarse al &#8220;s&#237;&#8221;, entonces el problema ya no es una pel&#237;cula. El problema es el ecosistema entero.</p><h2><strong>El desfase permanente: pel&#237;culas que llegan tarde a su p&#250;blico</strong></h2><p>Una parte importante del cine mexicano se estrena con poco aire. Pocas pantallas, pocos horarios, pocas semanas. El primer fin de semana manda en este mercado, el cine que necesita boca a boca compite con desventaja. La pel&#237;cula sale a pelear en un ring donde casi todo se decide antes de que el p&#250;blico la descubra.</p><p>Esto crea un patr&#243;n raro: pel&#237;culas relevantes encuentran a su p&#250;blico con retraso. El reconocimiento llega por rutas distintas al estreno. A veces la pel&#237;cula se vuelve &#8220;de culto&#8221; por recomendaci&#243;n paciente. A veces la rescata una plataforma. A veces reaparece en reestrenos y ciclos. A veces se cuela en redes por una escena y, desde ah&#237;, la gente llega al resto. El valor llega tarde porque la ventana original fue peque&#241;a por defecto.</p><p>Este desfase se siente m&#225;s en pel&#237;culas que trabajan con tensi&#243;n moral, con ambig&#252;edad o con incomodidad. Son obras que no se &#8220;venden&#8221; en una frase f&#225;cil, y que piden algo poco com&#250;n: atenci&#243;n sostenida. Y en un mercado de contenido tan saturado, esa atenci&#243;n se compra con presencia o se gana con tiempo. Cuando falta presencia y tambi&#233;n falta tiempo, queda la espera.</p><p>M&#233;xico s&#237; ha tenido pel&#237;culas que entran a tiempo y con fuerza. <em>Amores perros</em> (2000) se volvi&#243; un punto de quiebre por su energ&#237;a urbana, su estructura coral y su potencia como relato de la ciudad. <em>Y tu mam&#225; tambi&#233;n</em> (2001) logr&#243; algo igual de raro: ser popular, ser accesible y sostener lectura social sin sentirse como lecci&#243;n. Esos t&#237;tulos encontraron conversaci&#243;n en su momento porque tuvieron circulaci&#243;n fuerte y porque el p&#250;blico estaba listo para recibirlos como evento cultural.</p><p>Pero existe otra ruta igual de importante: la de pel&#237;culas que crecen en c&#225;mara lenta. <em>Temporada de patos</em> (2004) representa bien ese cine m&#237;nimo que se vuelve referencia por relectura, cineclubes y recomendaci&#243;n paciente. Es una pel&#237;cula que se disfruta por clima: el encierro, el tiempo muerto, la adolescencia en pausa. Funciona como un retrato de sensaciones, y por eso se queda en la memoria aunque no est&#233; construida para &#8220;pegar&#8221; con un gran momento.</p><p>Ese contraste ayuda a entender lo que pasa con muchas obras mexicanas: cuando falta exhibici&#243;n fuerte, la pel&#237;cula queda esperando su segunda vida. Y esa segunda vida no es un premio menor; muchas veces es donde el cine de verdad encuentra su comunidad.</p><p>Ah&#237; entra <em>Chicuarotes</em>. Su regreso se siente grande porque el primer paso fue silencioso. Como obra ya exist&#237;a. Lo que necesitaba era visibilidad dentro de un ecosistema saturado, donde la atenci&#243;n est&#225; repartida entre miles de est&#237;mulos diarios. El trend funcion&#243; como meg&#225;fono. La pregunta es qu&#233; costo trae ese meg&#225;fono.</p><p>Para ver el mapa completo, conviene sumar ejemplos de esa &#8220;segunda vida&#8221; del cine mexicano:</p><ul><li><p>Pel&#237;culas como <em>La jaula de oro</em> (migraci&#243;n vista como sistema) suelen crecer por recomendaci&#243;n y discusi&#243;n a largo plazo, m&#225;s que por un estreno masivo.</p></li><li><p>Pel&#237;culas como <em>Museo</em> o <em>Las ni&#241;as bien</em> se quedan por su lectura de clase y aspiraci&#243;n: conectan con p&#250;blico amplio, pero su conversaci&#243;n se asienta con el tiempo.</p></li><li><p>Documentales como <em>Presunto culpable</em> entran por otra puerta: el debate p&#250;blico. Son obras que se vuelven tema nacional y, por eso, su vida cultural se sostiene de manera distinta.</p></li></ul><p>En todos esos casos, el valor no depende solo de calidad. Depende de ruta: c&#243;mo se muestra, cu&#225;nto tiempo se le da, y qu&#233; conversaci&#243;n la acompa&#241;a.</p><h2><strong>La era del fragmento: c&#243;mo una pel&#237;cula se vuelve &#8220;audio&#8221; o &#8220;clip&#8221;</strong></h2><p>Hoy una pel&#237;cula puede entrar al radar por fragmentos: una escena corta, una frase, un audio, un plano. Esa puerta existe para todo tipo de cine, pero cambia el sentido seg&#250;n la obra.</p><p>En el cine que vive del impacto inmediato, el fragmento funciona como gancho natural. <em>Amores perros</em> circula desde hace a&#241;os por escenas que condensan tensi&#243;n en segundos. La gente ve el clip y entiende el tono: ciudad cruda, urgencia, choque. El fragmento sirve como resumen emocional que invita a ver el resto.</p><p>En el cine que depende del ritmo y la acumulaci&#243;n, el recorte cambia la experiencia. <em>G&#252;eros</em> (2014), de Alonso Ruizpalacios, vive por el paseo, el humor seco, el ritmo de una &#233;poca y el clima de una ciudad detenida. Un clip puede verse &#8220;bonito&#8221; o &#8220;aesthetic&#8221;, pero la pel&#237;cula funciona como trayecto; ah&#237; est&#225; su fuerza.</p><p>En el cine comercial, el fragmento suele ser parte del dise&#241;o. Hay comedias que ya nacen con piezas listas para circular: chistes recortables, escenas para meme, di&#225;logos que funcionan fuera de contexto. <em>No manches Frida</em> es un ejemplo claro de ese modelo, con Omar Chaparro como uno de sus rostros m&#225;s visibles dentro de esa comedia de consumo r&#225;pido. Ah&#237; el fragmento no es accidente: es combustible.</p><p>En este punto vale fijar una diferencia simple:</p><ul><li><p><strong>Viralidad</strong>: velocidad, repetici&#243;n, reconocimiento inmediato.</p></li><li><p><strong>Conversaci&#243;n</strong>: contexto, discusi&#243;n, memoria, relectura.</p></li></ul><p>La viralidad puede abrir la puerta. El problema aparece cuando ocupa el lugar de la conversaci&#243;n. La pel&#237;cula se vuelve &#8220;momento&#8221; y se evapora, o se vuelve s&#237;mbolo decorativo. El p&#250;blico la &#8220;conoce&#8221; por un gesto y siente que ya la vivi&#243;.</p><p>Eso explica por qu&#233; el caso <em>Chicuarotes</em> provoca ruido. Vuelve por una imagen replicable y, al mismo tiempo, trae temas que piden lectura completa: clase, violencia, juventud, humillaci&#243;n como lenguaje social. El sistema empuja hacia el clip. El cine pide tiempo.</p><p>Y esto no solo afecta al cine &#8220;serio&#8221;. Afecta tambi&#233;n al cine popular. La diferencia es que el cine popular suele estar preparado para ese juego. El cine que depende de atm&#243;sfera y construcci&#243;n lenta suele sufrir m&#225;s con el recorte, porque su valor est&#225; en la experiencia completa.</p><h2><strong>Representar o estetizar: cuando el pa&#237;s se consume como imagen</strong></h2><p>La violencia y la precariedad atraviesan el cine mexicano desde hace d&#233;cadas. Cambian tonos, cambian estilos, cambia la &#233;poca. Lo fr&#225;gil hoy es el marco donde esas im&#225;genes circulan.</p><p>En sala, una escena dura trae un antes y un despu&#233;s: personajes, decisiones, consecuencias. En redes, esa escena puede vivir sola. La precariedad se vuelve &#8220;look&#8221;: barrio como fondo, tristeza como filtro, violencia como mood. La imagen se separa del proceso que la explica, y ah&#237; empieza la estetizaci&#243;n.</p><p>Este dilema se entiende mejor con tres registros muy distintos del cine mexicano reciente:</p><ul><li><p>En documental, <em>Tempestad</em> (Tatiana Huezo) trabaja la violencia como atm&#243;sfera y sistema. Su fuerza est&#225; en el trayecto emocional, en la voz, en el tiempo. Un fragmento puede ser poderoso, pero la obra vive en la experiencia completa.</p></li><li><p>En ficci&#243;n sobria, <em>Sin se&#241;as particulares</em> (Fernanda Valadez) convierte la b&#250;squeda y la desaparici&#243;n en un recorrido seco y preciso. El peso est&#225; en la caminata, en el desgaste, en lo que se acumula.</p></li><li><p>En g&#233;nero, <em>Vuelven</em> (Issa L&#243;pez) mezcla violencia y fantas&#237;a para hablar del pa&#237;s desde un cuento oscuro. El terror funciona como lenguaje social: convierte el miedo en forma narrativa, y eso permite decir cosas que el realismo a veces deja fuera.</p></li></ul><p>En un entorno dominado por el recorte, estas obras corren un riesgo: sus im&#225;genes pueden circular como est&#233;tica sin el peso del contexto. Y <em>Chicuarotes</em> expone esa grieta de manera inmediata: una pel&#237;cula que quiso se&#241;alar una estructura puede terminar convertida en performance replicable.</p><p>El problema no es filmar el pa&#237;s. El problema es el entorno donde ese pa&#237;s se consume como imagen. En ese entorno, el cine mexicano enfrenta un reto doble: sostener sentido completo y, al mismo tiempo, sobrevivir en una cultura que premia lo que se entiende en segundos.</p><h2><strong>&#191;Qu&#233; significa valorar el cine mexicano hoy?</strong></h2><p>Valorar cine mexicano hoy ya no se decide en un solo lugar. Se define por cuatro fuerzas que empujan en direcciones distintas: <strong>espectador, industria, plataformas y Estado</strong>. Cada una usa un criterio diferente para decir &#8220;esto vali&#243; la pena&#8221;. Y cuando los criterios se mezclan, aparece el ruido: una pel&#237;cula puede ser un logro art&#237;stico y aun as&#237; pasar casi invisible; otra puede ser masiva y quedar en el olvido al mes siguiente.</p><h3><strong>El Estado y el dinero</strong></h3><p>En M&#233;xico, los apoyos p&#250;blicos y los est&#237;mulos fiscales influyen en qu&#233; proyectos nacen y c&#243;mo se distribuyen. IMCINE opera programas y convocatorias; FOCINE incluye l&#237;neas de apoyo en distintas modalidades, incluso cine experimental (con documentos de convocatoria para 2026). Adem&#225;s existe EFICINE (Art&#237;culo 189 de la LISR) como est&#237;mulo fiscal para producci&#243;n/postproducci&#243;n y tambi&#233;n distribuci&#243;n.</p><p>Esto importa por algo simple: <strong>el dinero define el tama&#241;o del riesgo</strong>. Define tiempo de desarrollo (qu&#233; tanto se puede reescribir y probar), define equipo (qu&#233; tan s&#243;lida queda la pel&#237;cula en c&#225;mara, sonido, edici&#243;n), define d&#237;as de rodaje (y por lo tanto qu&#233; tan apretado o qu&#233; tan fino queda el resultado), y define tambi&#233;n algo que se habla poco: <strong>la capacidad de llegar a p&#250;blico</strong>.</p><p>Porque una pel&#237;cula puede ser muy buena y morir por falta de ruta. Sin dise&#241;o de distribuci&#243;n, se queda en un estreno corto. Sin campa&#241;a, se entierra. Sin contactos y ventanas, pierde pantallas. En ese sentido, el financiamiento no solo decide si se filma: decide si se ve.</p><p>Y aqu&#237; entra una tensi&#243;n real del cine mexicano: el apoyo p&#250;blico suele estar asociado a prestigio y cine de b&#250;squeda; el mercado suele premiar f&#243;rmulas seguras. Cuando esas dos l&#243;gicas viven separadas, se producen dos mundos que casi no se tocan: pel&#237;culas que se respetan mucho y se ven poco, y pel&#237;culas que se ven mucho y se respetan poco.</p><h3><strong>Festivales</strong></h3><p>Los festivales funcionan como vitrina y como mercado. El FICM existe desde 2003 y mantiene v&#237;nculos con la Semana de la Cr&#237;tica de Cannes. Ayudan a formar conversaci&#243;n, a posicionar cine mexicano y a darle una primera vida a pel&#237;culas que dif&#237;cilmente tendr&#237;an un estreno grande.</p><p>Tambi&#233;n sirven como filtro: le dicen a la industria &#8220;esto vale&#8221;. Y eso puede abrir puertas a ventas, a distribuci&#243;n y a invitaciones. Pero el reto aparece en el puente hacia el p&#250;blico masivo: esa conversaci&#243;n a veces tarda en salir del circuito. Cuando tarda demasiado, el cine se vuelve un tema de nicho, y el nicho se convierte en destino.</p><p>En M&#233;xico se nota mucho esa distancia. El p&#250;blico general puede ubicar con facilidad la comedia taquillera del a&#241;o, pero batallar para recordar tres t&#237;tulos recientes de cine mexicano que incomoda o que propone algo formal. Ese desfase no se arregla con rega&#241;os al p&#250;blico. Se arregla con rutas m&#225;s claras para conectar festivales, salas y plataformas con una conversaci&#243;n que no sea de &#8220;enterados&#8221; &#250;nicamente.</p><h3><strong>Plataformas y TikTok</strong></h3><p>Las plataformas dan segunda vida, pero tambi&#233;n ordenan por portada, ranking y recomendaci&#243;n. En la pr&#225;ctica, una pel&#237;cula existe en el lugar que el algoritmo le asigna. Y ese lugar se gana con m&#233;tricas: clic, retenci&#243;n, repetici&#243;n. TikTok puede empujar una pel&#237;cula al centro por un gesto y puede recortar el significado hasta dejar una postal. El sistema premia lo repetible.</p><p>Aqu&#237; cambia el tipo de &#8220;valor&#8221;. En plataformas, valorar puede significar &#8220;me qued&#233; hasta el final&#8221; o &#8220;la dej&#233; a los diez minutos&#8221;. En TikTok, valorar puede significar &#8220;esto me sirvi&#243; como audio&#8221; o &#8220;esto se ve bien en mi video&#8221;. En ese entorno, el cine mexicano compite con una regla dura: <strong>lo que no se entiende r&#225;pido se vuelve fr&#225;gil</strong>.</p><p>Eso impacta de manera distinta seg&#250;n el tipo de pel&#237;cula:</p><ul><li><p>Una comedia comercial como <em>No manches Frida</em> tiene piezas listas para circular: chiste, ritmo, escena recortable.</p></li><li><p>Un cine m&#225;s atmosf&#233;rico y lento (piensa en pel&#237;culas que viven por clima y acumulaci&#243;n, como <em>G&#252;eros</em>) pierde parte de su fuerza cuando se vuelve clip.</p></li><li><p>Un documental como <em>Tempestad</em> depende de experiencia completa; un fragmento puede conmover, pero rara vez cuenta lo esencial.</p></li></ul><p>La plataforma ampl&#237;a p&#250;blico. El costo es que empuja a mirar el cine como contenido. Y cuando el cine se vuelve contenido, el est&#225;ndar de &#8220;valor&#8221; tiende a acercarse al est&#225;ndar de &#8220;rendimiento&#8221;.</p><h3><strong>T&#237;tulos: el primer filtro real</strong></h3><p>En un cat&#225;logo infinito, el t&#237;tulo es un anzuelo. Promete tono y g&#233;nero. Se recuerda o se pierde. <em>Amores perros</em> y <em>Y tu mam&#225; tambi&#233;n</em> son t&#237;tulos que se quedan en la cabeza y dicen algo antes de empezar. Esa frase inicial importa porque hoy la primera batalla se pelea antes de que alguien le d&#233; play.</p><p>Hay t&#237;tulos que invitan por curiosidad (<em>Sue&#241;o en otro idioma</em>), t&#237;tulos que marcan identidad (<em>Cindy la Regia</em>), t&#237;tulos que anuncian comedia ligera (<em>No manches Frida</em>), t&#237;tulos que ya traen un filo pol&#237;tico (<em>La dictadura perfecta</em>). El t&#237;tulo ya es parte del guion, pero tambi&#233;n es parte del marketing. Y en una &#233;poca de scroll, el marketing empieza en el nombre.</p><p>Esto suena fr&#237;o, pero es real: una pel&#237;cula puede estar bien hecha y aun as&#237; perder audiencia por un t&#237;tulo que no comunica, o por una campa&#241;a que promete otra cosa.</p><h2><strong>&#191;Qu&#233; tendr&#237;a que hacer un director mexicano para lograr calidad y &#233;xito comercial?</strong></h2><p>No hay receta &#250;nica, pero s&#237; condiciones que se repiten cuando una pel&#237;cula cruza ambos mundos.</p><h3><strong>Premisa clara</strong></h3><p>Una idea fuerte explicable en una l&#237;nea sin traicionar la complejidad. <em>Y tu mam&#225; tambi&#233;n</em> se entiende en una frase (&#8220;dos chavos y una mujer mayor viajan a una playa&#8221;), y debajo de eso hay pa&#237;s, clase, deseo, amistad, pol&#237;tica. La claridad abre la puerta; la profundidad sostiene el recuerdo.</p><h3><strong>Puente emocional</strong></h3><p>Un personaje o relaci&#243;n que conecte r&#225;pido y sostenga atenci&#243;n. Mucho cine mexicano valioso se queda sin puente: el p&#250;blico percibe distancia y se baja temprano. Pel&#237;culas que logran unir mirada cr&#237;tica con emoci&#243;n humana suelen resistir mejor el paso del tiempo.</p><h3><strong>Lenguaje visual con intenci&#243;n que sobreviva al recorte</strong></h3><p>Hoy una escena puede circular fuera de contexto en horas. Un director no controla eso, pero s&#237; puede construir im&#225;genes que, incluso recortadas, sigan apuntando al coraz&#243;n de la pel&#237;cula, no solo al &#8220;look&#8221;. <em>Amores perros</em> es un ejemplo de cine con escenas ic&#243;nicas que no pierden del todo su carga moral cuando se recortan, porque est&#225;n pegadas a conflicto.</p><h3><strong>Ruta pensada</strong></h3><p>Festival como legitimaci&#243;n, sala como evento, plataforma como segunda vida. Estrategia, no accidente. El cine mexicano que llega m&#225;s lejos suele tener ruta: primero se presenta en un lugar que le da conversaci&#243;n (festival), luego encuentra ventanas para verse (salas/ciclos), y despu&#233;s aterriza en plataforma con algo de historia previa.</p><h3><strong>T&#237;tulo y campa&#241;a honestos</strong></h3><p>Prometer lo que la pel&#237;cula entrega y elegir un nombre que se recuerde. Una campa&#241;a que vende &#8220;comedia&#8221; y entrega &#8220;tragedia&#8221; rompe al p&#250;blico; una que vende &#8220;arte&#8221; y entrega &#8220;f&#243;rmula&#8221; tambi&#233;n. La confianza es parte del &#233;xito.</p><p><strong>Y a todo esto, qu&#233; podemos concluir para construir&#8230;</strong></p><p>El caso <em>Chicuarotes</em> deja una idea &#250;til: una pel&#237;cula puede volverse visible por razones externas a su lenguaje, y aun as&#237; abrir una conversaci&#243;n importante. Tambi&#233;n deja un riesgo: la viralidad puede convertir obras complejas en est&#233;tica consumible.</p><p>El cine mexicano produce de todo: comedia popular, documental, cine de autor, terror, animaci&#243;n, s&#225;tira pol&#237;tica, drama &#237;ntimo. Lo que permanece suele combinar circulaci&#243;n y lectura. Lo que se diluye suele quedar reducido a una imagen o an&#233;cdota.</p><p>Y la pregunta final es:</p><ul><li><p><strong>&#191;Qu&#233; tipo de cine se est&#225; premiando cuando el valor cultural se parece cada vez m&#225;s al rendimiento de una tendencia?</strong></p></li><li><p><strong>&#191;Qu&#233; tendr&#237;a que cambiar (en exhibici&#243;n, fondos, festivales, plataformas y h&#225;bitos del p&#250;blico) para que el cine mexicano se valore en su propio tiempo, con conversaci&#243;n real y memoria?</strong></p></li></ul><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.archivonaranja.com/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Ya es 2026 y estamos cansados de scrollear]]></title><description><![CDATA[Abres una app para &#8220;descansar&#8221; y sales con la sensaci&#243;n de que te falt&#243; tiempo.]]></description><link>https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/es-2026-y-estamos-cansados-de-scrollear</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.archivonaranja.com/p/es-2026-y-estamos-cansados-de-scrollear</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[archivo naranja]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 02 Jan 2026 00:51:17 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!m6IM!,w_256,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Facb5c4e1-76c8-4a8c-95fe-a059fe36aa28_600x600.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Abres una app para &#8220;descansar&#8221; y sales con la sensaci&#243;n de que te falt&#243; tiempo. Se siente como falta de atenci&#243;n, m&#225;s que de reloj. La impresi&#243;n de ir tarde, de que alguien m&#225;s ya entendi&#243; algo que t&#250; sigues procesando. En 2025, el cansancio digital se sinti&#243; as&#237;: una acumulaci&#243;n constante de est&#237;mulos peque&#241;os que, juntos, ocupan toda tu cabeza.</p><p>Elegir qu&#233; ver, qu&#233; creer, a qui&#233;n responder, qu&#233; guardar, qu&#233; comprar, qu&#233; aprender. El peso de cada decisi&#243;n est&#225; en la suma de las mismas. Incluso cuando est&#225;s quieto, tu atenci&#243;n sigue activa. Tu descanso se llen&#243; de elecciones continuas que casi no se notan, pero no se detienen.</p><p>Este cansancio se siente como saturaci&#243;n mental. Pasan horas de contenido y, al final del d&#237;a, te cuesta recordar qu&#233; viste o qu&#233; vali&#243; la pena. El feed funciona m&#225;s como tr&#225;nsito que como experiencia. Con el tiempo, tu ocio empez&#243; a parecerse al trabajo. Revisar, responder, comparar, guardar. Tu tiempo libre se llen&#243; de micro tareas disfrazadas de entretenimiento. El scroll dej&#243; de ser una pausa clara y se mezcl&#243; con tu ritmo del d&#237;a: en filas, traslados, momentos muertos, antes de dormir.</p><p>Este cansancio se siente compartido m&#225;s que como algo individual. Aparece en conversaciones, en la forma en que se habla del celular, de las redes, de la informaci&#243;n. Es un fondo constante. En 2026, esa sensaci&#243;n empieza a leerse como un s&#237;ntoma. Se trata de una conexi&#243;n sin un punto claro de cierre. El cansancio de scrollear viene de no saber cu&#225;ndo algo termina.</p><p>Y ah&#237; empieza todo lo dem&#225;s.</p><h3>Cuando el internet cambi&#243; de forma</h3><p>Este cansancio se fue formando con el tiempo. Parte clave del cambio est&#225; en c&#243;mo se transform&#243; el internet a partir de los 2020s. Durante a&#241;os, tu experiencia digital estuvo organizada alrededor del orden cronol&#243;gico: entrabas, ve&#237;as qu&#233; hab&#237;a pasado y sal&#237;as. Hab&#237;a un principio y un final claros. Ese esquema empez&#243; a perder peso cuando la recomendaci&#243;n tom&#243; el centro.</p><p>Con la recomendaci&#243;n, tu feed dej&#243; de responder a lo que ocurri&#243; y empez&#243; a responder a lo que retiene. El contenido ya no se ordena por tiempo, sino por la probabilidad de mantenerte dentro, y esa l&#243;gica lo cambia todo. El internet deja de sentirse como un archivo y empieza a operar como un flujo constante que nunca (De verdad, nunca) se agota.</p><p>Este cambio tambi&#233;n redefine el ritmo. Antes, la actualizaci&#243;n marcaba un corte: ya viste lo nuevo, puedes irte. Con el feed infinito, ese corte desaparece. Siempre hay algo m&#225;s. Algo parecido. Algo &#8220;mejor&#8221;. El dise&#241;o acompa&#241;a esta l&#243;gica con decisiones muy espec&#237;ficas: scroll sin fin, reproducci&#243;n autom&#225;tica, notificaciones pensadas para interrumpir, rachas que convierten la constancia en h&#225;bito. Cada elemento reduce la fricci&#243;n de seguir.</p><p>Y al mismo tiempo, el proceso creativo se ajusta a esa estructura. Crear deja de ser solo una cuesti&#243;n de ideas, voz o punto de vista. Empieza a depender de m&#233;tricas claras: cu&#225;nto tiempo se quedan, cu&#225;ntas veces regresan, qu&#233; tan seguido publicas o qu&#233; formato retiene mejor. El contenido se optimiza para el sistema antes que para la lectura, la escucha o la mirada atenta.</p><p>En 2025, este cambio se vuelve visible para ti. El algoritmo ya no se percibe como algo que opera detr&#225;s, sino como el eje de la experiencia. Decide qu&#233; aparece primero, qu&#233; se repite varias veces y qu&#233; se pierde sin haber sido visto. Tu feed se siente menos como exploraci&#243;n y m&#225;s como navegaci&#243;n guiada.</p><p>Esto tambi&#233;n afecta tu relaci&#243;n con el tiempo. El pasado pierde peso porque el sistema prioriza lo reciente o lo que funciona mejor. El futuro pierde una expectativa clara, porque no hay un &#8220;despu&#233;s&#8221;. Todo ocurre en un presente continuo que se renueva cada vez que bajas un poco m&#225;s la pantalla.</p><p>Cuando el internet adopta esa forma, el cansancio deja de depender de la cantidad de horas conectadas, depende de la imposibilidad de cerrar. De no saber cu&#225;ndo algo termina. De sentir que siempre falta ver un poco m&#225;s para estar al d&#237;a. Y ese estado, sostenido durante a&#241;os, empieza a pasar factura.</p><h3>El l&#237;mite del modelo</h3><p>Con el tiempo, el cansancio acumulado empieza a marcar un l&#237;mite claro. Un modelo basado en producir sin parar deja de sostenerse cuando tu atenci&#243;n se fragmenta todo el tiempo. La creatividad, durante a&#241;os medida por cantidad y frecuencia, empieza a evaluarse desde otro lugar.</p><p>Publicar mucho deja de garantizar presencia. Aparecer seguido deja de asegurar relevancia. Si el entorno est&#225; saturado, el volumen pierde efecto y la claridad gana peso. Las ideas que se entienden r&#225;pido, que no exigen esfuerzo extra y que llegan con un punto claro empiezan a destacar frente a piezas dise&#241;adas solo para retener.</p><p>As&#237; es como este cambio tambi&#233;n se refleja en h&#225;bitos cotidianos. Ajustes peque&#241;os, pero consistentes: menos apps instaladas, menos notificaciones activas, m&#225;s cuidado al elegir plataformas, m&#225;s tiempo con el mismo tel&#233;fono, suscripciones revisadas con atenci&#243;n. Funciona como mantenimiento b&#225;sico, m&#225;s que como un gesto extremo.</p><p>Al mismo tiempo, crece el inter&#233;s por experiencias con l&#237;mites claros. Espacios con principio y fin. Proyectos sin promesas de acceso infinito. Planes que no dependen de estar disponible todo el tiempo. La finitud empieza a verse como una ventaja.</p><p>En tu vida diaria, estas (sanas) decisiones conviven con micro alegr&#237;as que funcionan como puntos de equilibrio. Acciones simples que no compiten por atenci&#243;n ni piden optimizaci&#243;n: una caminata corta, ordenar un espacio, preparar algo de comer o escuchar m&#250;sica sin hacer nada m&#225;s. Momentos que devuelven algo que el feed fue perdiendo: cierre.</p><p>Dentro de este contexto, tu creatividad ajusta su ritmo. Reaccionar a todo se vuelve insostenible. Seguir cada tendencia y cada formato deja menos espacio para pensar y la pausa empieza a integrarse al proceso creativo.</p><p>El l&#237;mite y el cansancio de este modelo aparece como una p&#233;rdida gradual de sentido de todo lo que consumes. Mucho contenido circula, pero poco se queda. Mucha actividad ocurre, pero pocas cosas dejan huella. Esa diferencia empieza a pesar tanto para ti cuando consumes como cuando creas.</p><p>Ah&#237; se abre espacio para otra l&#243;gica, que deja de girar alrededor de producir m&#225;s y se mueve hacia decidir mejor.</p><h3>Crear y consumir en 2026</h3><p>En 2026 empieza a tomar forma otra l&#243;gica creativa. Menos reacci&#243;n constante y m&#225;s selecci&#243;n. Menos ruido y m&#225;s criterio. La creatividad se mueve del impulso de hacer al acto de elegir: qu&#233; publicar, cu&#225;ndo hablar, qu&#233; guardar, qu&#233; dejar fuera. La decisi&#243;n se vuelve parte central del proceso.</p><p>Este cambio redefine tu rol cuando creas. Durante a&#241;os, la presi&#243;n estuvo en la presencia continua: alimentar el feed, mantener visibilidad, no perder ritmo. Esa din&#225;mica empieza a desgastarse. En un entorno donde im&#225;genes, textos y sonidos pueden generarse con facilidad, la diferencia ya no est&#225; en producir m&#225;s, sino en editar mejor. En dar forma. En aceptar que no todo necesita circular.</p><p>Crear empieza a parecerse m&#225;s a dise&#241;ar un sistema que a reaccionar a todo. Un sistema con reglas propias, tiempos definidos y silencios incluidos. Publicar menos no implica decir menos; implica decir con m&#225;s intenci&#243;n. La atenci&#243;n del otro se trata como un recurso limitado.</p><p>Tambi&#233;n cambia tu relaci&#243;n con la audiencia. Con menos atenci&#243;n disponible, las ideas necesitan llegar claras desde el inicio. Pensadas. Cerradas. El valor se mueve de captar segundos a generar confianza. De aparecer seguido a aparecer cuando hay algo que decir.</p><p>En este contexto, la creatividad recupera ritmo. Un ritmo que te permite leer, mirar o escuchar sin prisa. Que deja espacio para que una idea se quede m&#225;s tiempo. Que acepta que algunas cosas necesitan madurar antes de mostrarse. La atenci&#243;n se consolid&#243; como el combustible del sistema cultural actual. Todo compite por ella y todo se dise&#241;a alrededor de ella. Entender c&#243;mo se gasta y c&#243;mo se pierde cambia tu relaci&#243;n con el contenido y con el acto de crear.</p><p>En 2026, crear tambi&#233;n implica ordenar. Elegir l&#237;mites. Marcar tiempos. Decidir silencios. Y esa capacidad de ordenar se vuelve una de las decisiones creativas m&#225;s relevantes del momento.</p>]]></content:encoded></item></channel></rss>